Turbo size

[1iron]

How in the hell do you pick the right size turbo. Everyone recomends something different. I have heard from 88mm to 101mm for my 402ci sbf. I guess when I figure the turbo out I can calculate the injector size. :confused:

[LXtasy]

you can either contact companies that specialize in turbos and building turbo systemsand ask them, or go to turboforums.com, learn how to read compressor maps and turbo sizing from there.
You need to know more than MM sizing, AR ratio is very important, flange sizes, power levels, inducer wheel sizing , etc etc

A good book to read is

TURBO: real world high performance turbocharger systems by jay k. miller. Lot of indepth information and facts that will help you choose your turbo and other components

[jmd]

dam. chp members getting off the bottle and going with hair dryers. about time.

[s14.5gonewide]

its more about volumetric efficency in picking the right turbo.
rpm,target boost,whp your after.

if you want to shoot me some specs of the motor i can help you out..

[White00gt]

How in the hell do you pick the right size turbo. Everyone recomends something different. I have heard from 88mm to 101mm for my 402ci sbf. I guess when I figure the turbo out I can calculate the injector size. :confused:

How fast you want to go? Any of those inducer sizes will work for your cubic inch, any of those inducer sizes will max out 160lb inj. How much power you want to make, the choice is all yours.

You can be somebody with a 114mm, and not be able to run faster than mid 5's, or you can be somebody with a well thought out optimized combo and run high 4's with a 88mm. it really has more bearing on the hot side than the cold side.

You decide what you want that will determine what hair drier. And how it's setup.

[bwelch]

I'm gonna put a MP70 on a 6.0. Master power makes some bad ass turbos!

[WTFWSAT]

You could call Tuten or Precision and im sure they can recommend something. I would go with something from an 88 to a 98, i dont see the need to go with anything bigger.

[s14.5gonewide]

You could call Tuten or Precision and im sure they can recommend something. I would go with something from an 88 to a 98, i dont see the need to go with anything bigger.


only problem with calling percision or one of the bigg companies is...
they are going to try and market you a billit dbb q/p housing turbo and your talking 3,500-5g nad if your talking a comp class turbo you can go up from their.
than they may try and get you to port/clip,fence the unit which adds on.

think about it this way..

you can drop 3-6g on a off the shelf unit
you can drop 4-7g on a modded custom unit
you can spend 800-3g on a used unit

their are options like a hx45(off a desile truck) that are dirt cheep buy a back housing and walla you have a good contender that will flow 30-60 psi ( you could even go with a tial stainless machined housing that wont ever crack and will drop your weight plus is the shit and flows better than the cast unit

their is options likes300/s400(borg warner) that are t4 or t6 fotprint that will flow 1000whp+ and dont require you to brake the bank and are easily rebuilt where the new units reqire the whole center section to be replaced unless its the new percision center housings that are rebuildable but i can say i spend 3,500 on a 72mm with a q housing and it was dbb billit(off the shelf turbo)


again you can buy whatever... but you can get a turbo that will hit early and taper off on the top or you can get a mid rang or one that has some lag but makes it on the top end. with a bb motor id be shooting for a mid-top end you are drag racing odds are your on a trans brake or 2 step(if not both) and dont have to worry about spooling it.

are you running exotic fuel or pump gas... are your spring in the head up to the task of holding back 30+psi ive seen test where valves were pushed open because not enough seat pressure, how much air are your heads going to flow.. how hard can you spin the motor(you dont need a turbo that wakes up at 4,000 and makes power till 9000 if you cant spin it that hard..

their is such thing a turbo map and its not super hard to read you just need to know the general info than you can choose your options from their.

sorry about my rant.

[WWhittle]

Depends on your motor. Cubic inch isn't everything. My guess- 88-94mm, large frame, 1.0 AR, and if it were me, a billet wheel. The turbo should be the least of your concerns. Convertor, boost controller, rear gear etc will have a bigger impact than a few mm on a turbo.

Your combo is a dime a dozen, so finding all the right pArts, pieces and proven combos should be easy.

[WWhittle]

Alot of this is 4/6 cylinder applicable but not applicable to a Windsor.



only problem with calling percision or one of the bigg companies is...
they are going to try and market you a billit dbb q/p housing turbo and your talking 3,500-5g nad if your talking a comp class turbo you can go up from their.
than they may try and get you to port/clip,fence the unit which adds on.

think about it this way..

you can drop 3-6g on a off the shelf unit
you can drop 4-7g on a modded custom unit
you can spend 800-3g on a used unit

their are options like a hx45(off a desile truck) that are dirt cheep buy a back housing and walla you have a good contender that will flow 30-60 psi ( you could even go with a tial stainless machined housing that wont ever crack and will drop your weight plus is the shit and flows better than the cast unit

their is options likes300/s400(borg warner) that are t4 or t6 fotprint that will flow 1000whp+ and dont require you to brake the bank and are easily rebuilt where the new units reqire the whole center section to be replaced unless its the new percision center housings that are rebuildable but i can say i spend 3,500 on a 72mm with a q housing and it was dbb billit(off the shelf turbo)


again you can buy whatever... but you can get a turbo that will hit early and taper off on the top or you can get a mid rang or one that has some lag but makes it on the top end. with a bb motor id be shooting for a mid-top end you are drag racing odds are your on a trans brake or 2 step(if not both) and dont have to worry about spooling it.

are you running exotic fuel or pump gas... are your spring in the head up to the task of holding back 30+psi ive seen test where valves were pushed open because not enough seat pressure, how much air are your heads going to flow.. how hard can you spin the motor(you dont need a turbo that wakes up at 4,000 and makes power till 9000 if you cant spin it that hard..

their is such thing a turbo map and its not super hard to read you just need to know the general info than you can choose your options from their.

sorry about my rant.

[1iron]

You could call Tuten or Precision and im sure they can recommend something. I would go with something from an 88 to a 98, i dont see the need to go with anything bigger.

Yep I guess calling Chris is a good option. I was just kicking around the idea. It looks like I'll only have to change everything to make the swap.

[1iron]

Depends on your motor. Cubic inch isn't everything. My guess- 88-94mm, large frame, 1.0 AR, and if it were me, a billet wheel. The turbo should be the least of your concerns. Convertor, boost controller, rear gear etc will have a bigger impact than a few mm on a turbo.

Your combo is a dime a dozen, so finding all the right pArts, pieces and proven combos should be easy.

I'll take a dozen. Who do I send the dime to?

[WWhittle]

Another option is to call Proline. Let them spec your cam and turbo. They will be the same price as any other dealer- the only difference being that they have tons of turbo windsors out there to pull info from to get you set up right the first time.

Tuten is the other obvious choice. He can help you pick the entire setup as well.

[cliff-1972]

What are you doing with the car?Is it drag only or street/strip?You can get 80mm for under $1100.I have a couple of 76mm Holsets off 855 Cummins.It has alot to do with the hp you are trying to get out of it.Diesel turbos are a good option,but most have larger turbines so they won't spool as fast.I have some good sources on buy turbos if you need some.

[1iron]

What are you doing with the car?Is it drag only or street/strip?You can get 80mm for under $1100.I have a couple of 76mm Holsets off 855 Cummins.It has alot to do with the hp you are trying to get out of it.Diesel turbos are a good option,but most have larger turbines so they won't spool as fast.I have some good sources on buy turbos if you need some.

Drag car with some street ability. Looks like it will be easier to change cam and add a kit.

[cliff-1972]

CX Racing sells some pretty good kits.

[bwelch]

Drag car with some street ability. Looks like it will be easier to change cam and add a kit.

Your car already hauls ass on a small shot. I would just change the cam and pill it up. It would cost alot of money to change your setup.

[slowgreen99]

F2r

[1iron]

F2r

:gggg:

[Bradleyrj]

88mm, T6 flange, 1.0 A/R with the Billet wheel like Wes suggested. What are you using for fuel / ign control and boost control?

[ForceFed4g63]

CX Racing sells some pretty good kits.

All they sell is knock-off fake chinese products...

[cliff-1972]

It seems to work though:bigthumb:.But for how long??????

[1iron]

88mm, T6 flange, 1.0 A/R with the Billet wheel like Wes suggested. What are you using for fuel / ign control and boost control?

The car has big stuff 3. Don't know anything about boost control. Big ass blow off valve and let it make all the boost it can.

[WWhittle]

It would be easier (cheaper) to go to a procharger. Motor specs, including cam, will be almost the same as nitrous- same headers, same electronics for the most part, etc etc.

[1iron]

It would be easier (cheaper) to go to a procharger. Motor specs, including cam, will be almost the same as nitrous- same headers, same electronics for the most part, etc etc.

Too Loud!!!!

[Bradleyrj]

AMS 1000 for boost control in addition to the BS3 and your set. The Procharger would be easier...and in the grand scheme of things, loud shouldnt be a factor. Its not like you would be running an F4 or anything. A vortech YSI would also be a good choice. I have a friend with a YSI on a 393 and E-85 blow through making close to 900.

[1998ta__1991rs]

you can get the msd boost controller for under $400 and it seems to be a very capable unit. it's all electronic also so you dont have to mess with the co2 like the ams. this is the guy that i get my turbo stuff from, his name is Reed and he knows his stuff when spec'ing out a turbo

http://www.workturbochargers.com/

[SOADweskey]

I don't know if it transfers to the V8 crowd at all but I have a Greddy PROFEC B Spec II on my GSX for boost control and it is a very nice piece that is easily adjustable and hold boost at much more constant levels than when I was using manual boost control.

I also hear the turbo smart stuff is really nice.

[s14.5gonewide]

bov: tial
wg: tial 60mm or turbonetic nex gen 60mm

as far as import/4cyl/6cyl applications.. their are 6cyl street cars making 1800+ on twin 67mm and drag supras running gt50 and 88mm turbos... along with holset 70+mm hybrids its really nothing new to the import community..

heck ive seen evo/dsm with 80mm turbos which are 4cyl load em up and let em fly.

when the domestic guys do step up to the turbo game they seem to forget its the import comminity that got it where its at now. not saying the gnx,typhoon,sho didnt contribute but the wrx,evo,supra,rx7 comminity was paving the way

[BAD BOB]

as far as BOV and WG i would go with JGS. for the money you cant beat the product and quality

[LXtasy]

i went with a JGS wastegate also. Very nice piece.

[Blue Skunk]

F2r


Procharger FTW! :bigthumb:

[1998ta__1991rs]

JGS If u sre buying new, Im running a precision wastegate and its great but its only a 46mm i think they have a larger one out now.

[jmd]

procharger is a great setup.

[Bradleyrj]

VSracing.com is where I got my BOV and Wastegate from.

[79bluebird]

tial wastegate and bov

[Adandos]

You should checkout our turbo recommendation calculator (http://horsepowercalculators.net/turbocalculator/our-turbo-calculator-explained)

Basically you need to first calculate your engine's naturally aspirated flow requirements (let's say 300cfm of air at 0psi of boost at 6500 rpm)

Based on that and based on your target boost pressure (for simplicity sake let's assume you want to double your horsepower and you will be using a decent turbo and intercooler)

So let's say you need a turbo that flows around 600cfm at 18psi of boost

Our calculator automates this entire process and even plots your engine demand on compressor maps so you can make sure you have a good fit turbo

http://terrafirms.com/demand.png

The process I described above can take you a good half hour to do by hand if you know what you're doing. Our calculator does it in under 3 minutes.

Sign up for a free trial , you get 3 free logins/sessions where you get ALL the product features...

[///Mcompact]

Thanks for the help, Spybot...

[1iron]

Well, no turbo for me. I am going to lower the compression a little and stay nitrous. Maybe one day I'll have enough money to do a forced induction setup.