Carolina Horsepower

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-   -   Should I swich to a Glide? (http://www.balatrons.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8334)

Harry 04-28-2011 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddy231 (Post 112071)
robert if you really fix a glide for racing 1350 won,t cover everything. you got to have a ultra bell a transbrake input shaft hardened clutch hub double ring servo rabestos clutchs band and o yea you got to find a case to cut up too. and if you going fast you need an aftermarket set of planets

Yep. Good set of straight cuts, 1000.00.

gearmesh, inc. 04-28-2011 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddy231 (Post 112070)
you forgot the 300.00 for the machine shop to cut the planets and hubs so you can roller rize it and get rid of those thrust washers. been building trannys and racing fords for 30 plus years. i got a glide in my toy. but i got a c4 in my street 66 mustang. but it is a street car.

In my opinion, I think the jury may still be out on going full rollerized. If you are a class racer looking for any minuscule advantage over your competition, then I say go for it. On the other hand, bronze thrust washers can take more shock loading than the roller thrust bearings, although a little more running friction will be there.

Some transmissions have enough meat in the hard parts to still be strong enough despite cutting some thrust bearing pockets deeper to fit the roller thrust bearings. Some do not, such as the 4L60E. Lots of aftermarket performance trans builders will do the machine work to fit a rollerized thrust bearing under the sun shell of a 4L60E. The truth is, the factory plastic washer in this location never sees the thrust load of the entire rotating assembly. It is only there to keep the sun shell from rubbing metal to metal with the low roller clutch inner race. But, in order to make room for a roller bearing in this location, the low roller inner race has to be cut back narrower. I have seen these narrowed low roller inner races give up in cars that leave with lots of nitrous that can stick their power to the ground. This part in a 4L60E absolutely needs to stay at its full design dimension to hold up in hard leaving cars. The only time you will see the factory plastic washer fail in this location is due to the rear planet burning up, not due to raw power input.

bwelch 04-28-2011 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry (Post 112073)
Yep. Good set of straight cuts, 1000.00.

$750 new on racingjunk

RobertHolton1 04-28-2011 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddy231 (Post 112071)
robert if you really fix a glide for racing 1350 won,t cover everything. you got to have a ultra bell a transbrake input shaft hardened clutch hub double ring servo rabestos clutchs band and o yea you got to find a case to cut up too. and if you going fast you need an aftermarket set of planets

o your not telling me nothing new...

RobertHolton1 04-28-2011 01:32 PM

my bad damn... throwing the fact sheet at me...lol

freddy231 04-28-2011 06:08 PM

gearmesh you won,t get an arguement from me on rollerrizing but alot of people ask for it now days. i still believe that the clutch size in the c4 is its limit but i have only been building them fo 30 plus years. good to see someone that thinks before they build though. most builders this day just remove and replace.

gearmesh, inc. 04-28-2011 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freddy231 (Post 112124)
gearmesh you won,t get an arguement from me on rollerrizing but alot of people ask for it now days. i still believe that the clutch size in the c4 is its limit but i have only been building them fo 30 plus years. good to see someone that thinks before they build though. most builders this day just remove and replace.

Cutting pockets in C-4 hard parts to make room for roller thrust bearings hasn't been a detriment that I know of concerning the durability of its hard parts. In fact, most transmissions out there seem to survive just fine despite a little material being removed to make the required space. I just made a mention of caution concerning what I have come across on the 4L60 with a cut down low roller inner race. The issue of the aftermarket putting a roller thrust bearing there is just a solution looking for a problem.

You are right about most builders just removing and replacing parts. It definitely takes more effort to set a unit up for longevity in a high performance application. In addition to that, the occasional R&D time gets spent when going to where no one else has gone before. Hell, 10 years ago, you wouldn't dream of taking an AOD or 4L60E into the 9s or faster in the quarter.

ShawnBoyMoody 04-29-2011 12:12 AM

Gerald, I got to drive the car tonight and the tranny works great!. :ty:

gearmesh, inc. 04-29-2011 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShawnBoyMoody (Post 112149)
Gerald, I got to drive the car tonight and the tranny works great!. :ty:

That's good to hear. Now go run it like you stole it until something breaks!

Warning: I like to build a transmission so it will last through at least 4 or 5 engine teardowns before you have to worry about it!

For $hits and giggles, me and Darryl have a running bet on what will give up first in that 8 second LTD of his. Will it be the motor or the AOD??????:hysterical:

Darryl Buckner 04-29-2011 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearmesh, inc. (Post 112172)
That's good to hear. Now go run it like you stole it until something breaks!

Warning: I like to build a transmission so it will last through at least 4 or 5 engine teardowns before you have to worry about it!

For $hits and giggles, me and Darryl have a running bet on what will give up first in that 8 second LTD of his. Will it be the motor or the AOD??????:hysterical:

So far a set of stock brown clutches in the front drum got welded together, but its all Reybestos reds now, and no complaints, hell the browns lasted a year. 3589LBS car has been 8.82 at 152mph, on its second season with only a fluid change and filter change..:bigthumb:


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