| gearmesh, inc. |
04-28-2011 11:53 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by freddy231
(Post 112070)
you forgot the 300.00 for the machine shop to cut the planets and hubs so you can roller rize it and get rid of those thrust washers. been building trannys and racing fords for 30 plus years. i got a glide in my toy. but i got a c4 in my street 66 mustang. but it is a street car.
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In my opinion, I think the jury may still be out on going full rollerized. If you are a class racer looking for any minuscule advantage over your competition, then I say go for it. On the other hand, bronze thrust washers can take more shock loading than the roller thrust bearings, although a little more running friction will be there.
Some transmissions have enough meat in the hard parts to still be strong enough despite cutting some thrust bearing pockets deeper to fit the roller thrust bearings. Some do not, such as the 4L60E. Lots of aftermarket performance trans builders will do the machine work to fit a rollerized thrust bearing under the sun shell of a 4L60E. The truth is, the factory plastic washer in this location never sees the thrust load of the entire rotating assembly. It is only there to keep the sun shell from rubbing metal to metal with the low roller clutch inner race. But, in order to make room for a roller bearing in this location, the low roller inner race has to be cut back narrower. I have seen these narrowed low roller inner races give up in cars that leave with lots of nitrous that can stick their power to the ground. This part in a 4L60E absolutely needs to stay at its full design dimension to hold up in hard leaving cars. The only time you will see the factory plastic washer fail in this location is due to the rear planet burning up, not due to raw power input.
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