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you will get no where giving them a bill.
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Yeah I know, but it would make me feel better even if they didn't pay it.
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I'm concerned because I care. I thought always that chris would look out for me. He did.....kinda. But to blow me off because of something that he reads on the Internet? I didn't come on here bashing Rick Hendrick. I came on here expressing my frustrations to u guys and hoping to learn some other things to tell them to help them diagnose the problem. Sure you could read anything into it you want to but seriously?
Yeah, should have learned when they had my wifes car for more than a month and all they did was throw parts at it until they fixed it. Or did they? Four months later, same issue arises again. Whatever. I still need help though. Anyone wanna supervise me while I dismantle top half of my motor to diagnose this thing? I'm a bolt on guy, not an engine builder. A broke one at that..... |
If the dude was so concerned, he could have came on here and gotten some ideas or at least posted. You did nothing wrong and weren't outta line. Let them throw a temper tantrum.
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The mechanics at local gm dealers are "bolt-on" guys too. If the code reader cant find the problem, they cant fix it.
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Well apparently this guy has the most experience of all of the shop on "modified" vehicles.
How do you tell if a lifter is bad other than noise? |
If it's loose or looks out of place in any way from the other ones.
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I definitely wouldn't dive in thinking it's a lifter. I think what you should do is talk to a local guy with hp tuners or efi live that tunes and see if they can fix your issue. That's where I and other's believe it's at. Maybe you can work something out so that if they fix it you pay, if not then thanks for your time here's some beer or something.
If you absolutely feel you have to go into the motor, I wouldn't go directly to the lifter. That involves taking the head off. Instead, take the valve cover off 8mm bolts, rocker arm 8mm bolt and check the push rod. Lay it on a flat surface and roll it. If it wobbles, then there's your problem. Torque value for the rocker arm is 22 ft-lbs. |
You have to take the whole head off to check the lifters???
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Wow...makes me rethink wanting a V8, I'm used to popping off the valve cover and having access to everything...
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This is for a lsx series motor. I don't know of anyone that has had a lifter go out on them with stock longblock. It's not something that should make you stay away by any means.
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they want no part of the truck anymore because they are worried about public humiliation when they cant figure out the problem......
like someone else said if the computer doesnt spit out a specific problem that localized to a very common problem then they are stumped. the VERY second thing done should have been a compression and leakdown test, while its likely it'll come back in spec it would atleast rule out a few things. they wouldnt be able to diagnose a valvespring issue unless its obviously broken, my opinion is its likely just weak. a bent pushrod would cause less power from that cylinder which would show up as a misfire (cylinder contribution) but i've never seen an LS bend a pushrod even when being over revved. a lifter is another possible cause but you really wont know much without pulling the head and swapping them since its a higher RPM issue they/it is probably going to appear fine to the eye just like the valve spring.... be glad they decided to send you packing, they never would have figured it out and you'd have a truck that was part swapped until they were fed up, because throwing parts at a problem is all they are capable of, even with all the technical support and equipment they are still incompetent.... |
Maybe schardbody can fix it!
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I also have some stock lifters. |
Dealerships only have a service department because the manufacturer makes them service what they sell as part of the franchise agreement. If the owners and upper management could have their way, they would only sell cars and that would be the end of it.
Since the service department is the bastard child sideshow of the dealership, they definitely aren't too interested in staffing the place with the brightest techs, which means the cheapest they can find. At best, only about 1 in 10 of the techs in the place that can work a vehicle from bumper to bumper. Sooner or later, the one or two smart techs will get out of the dealership game to start their own shop or find another trade. The UAW has managed to secure the biggest chunk of money out of the price of a new car. That leaves very little cash out of the price to cover any warranty claims. Its way easier for the manufacturer to short change the franchise end of the car business via below market labor reimbursement for any warranty work done by the service department. Warranty flat rate labor time sucks for any of the big 3. A tech can change a long block under warranty and only get paid for 8-10 hours of labor. Any decent tech that does it right will have about 13 to 15 actual hours in the job. Experienced techs won't hang around long in that environment. Its way easier for a service department to just abandon a hard to find problem when they can point the finger at aftermarket mods. The tech only gets paid for claiming to replace a faulty part. They are lucky if they even get paid to diagnose a problem. Be glad you got away from the dealer without them voiding your warranty nationwide. You got away from that mess about the best you could (free). |
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