Synthetic fluids
 

Anyone running synthetic fluids? Notice any difference?

i put some in my T56 in the LS camaro,
and it was noticeably smoother.

i put some in my old Harley motor, and it took 10 degrees off the temp, from 280 to 270, consistently.


I do not run synthetic in the car/truck motors, because i change it so regular

i think it's better to change dino oil and spend $$ a year.
than to leave synthetic in, and change it less, but still spend same $$ per year.


synthetic in a tranny or rearend is a GOOD thing, though, i think


theres no right answer. just do what your wallet tells you.

i spent $125 changing fluids in my truck: oil, tranny, rear.
and the only rear fluid is synthetic,
and that was the CHEAP motor oil for a diesel.

and the nova needs the same,
and the camaro is DRASTICALLY overdue.

and the camaro needs the GM OEM antifreeze drained too, that stuff is supposed to turn into Jello at some point

Only the big hole in my wallet. Gained nada.

I use synthetic in the motor of the truck, but I still change it around 3k.

I always try and run full synthetic oil... I tend to change it out less because I usually end up forgetting. When breaking in motors after a rebuild or so I run cheap regular oil.

in a high performance motor run either valvoline VR1 or Brad Penn

the motor in my s10 had synthetic oil since new so i was told. it was plain nasty inside. i run conventional in mine. im cheap

I changed to synthetic Castrol Edge in my Dodge Ram and notice a positive difference. Keep in mind though that just because you run a synthetic motor oil that your oil filters generally only last 3500 miles before they start breaking down and don't filter out as much. I only run WIX filters in my vehicles and even their training classes tell you to change filters at 3500-4000 even if running synthetic. But back to the original question, yea I notice a big difference over conventional. I don't use synthetic in the Turtle though.

Thanks for the replies.

Makes you wonder if that is still just a marketing deal to keep you purchasing the product sooner than waiting. Which in turn nets twice as many filters being sold. If it was unbiased independent testing that I might believe it

I never run synthetic oils, but I do use Wix filters.

I use Ford filters or Fram extra guard. Think I'll pass up the synthetic engine oil but will go with synthetic trans fluid. The rear end is a locker, I don't see the need for synthetic there.

I always use factory filters.

worst thing you could possibly do is run a fram filter

I second that. In my wrenching career, I have personally seen 3 Fram filters in which the filter media ripped from the end plate that it was glued to and pack up in the end of the filter blocking oil flow. All three instances happened on cold startup when pressure drop across the media is at maximum with cold, thick oil. Sounds like some serious QC and/or design flaw issues to me. I have even heard that Fram runs cardboard endplates to glue the filter media to instead of metal ones!

[QUOTE=gearmesh, inc.;89217]I second that.

x3

Its true.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1662838

This is a fact http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfj9KUv0pKY

Not to mention that even when a Fram works like it is suppose to, it is still much more restrictive than it's competitors. There are plenty of datalogs online to prove it.

True, but they were referencing to any filter not just their own. I like WIX because they are made the exact same as the Mobile1 but at half the price (filter down to 20 microns, have spiral core design, high quality rubber drain back valve). I think the only filter that filters out to a smaller micron is the new Royal Purple that goes to 22 microns. I would like to see an unbiased test on all the filters to see how they hold up though.

goood read/vids thx.

i only run wix on any thing. you can ask billy i dont even like selling fram filters. or cheap brake pads because i know what will happen with both. conventional oil is what i use. what brand is personal preference. ray has talked me into that rotella oil it seems to be real good. he runs it in the challenger, caliber and ram. when my truck is back on the road it too will have rotella after we poured that and 10/40 side by side.

also a NAPA Gold filter is the same as a wix and cheaper also

i bought wix commercial brand fitlers even though i cant remember the name. 12 of them for like 20 bucks

Bad thing about ford filters is, if you have high oil pressure, their seals have been known to blow out.

I run WD-40 in my motor.....

I would switch to seafoam and slick 50 engine clean. The internals be blingin!

I used to run it off biscuits and gravy but I got hungry and switched to the WD-40.

Reportedly, the Purolator Pure-One filters rate up there with the likes of Wix, Mobile 1, and K&N oil filters.

Wix it is, thanks for the great info.

FWIW- Valv. VR-1 20-50 in the 66 and the 53 harley, dumped every 1k miles each.
amsoil 5w30 diesel in the DD silverado (super mild flat tappet smallblock) dumped every 10k.
wix filters on EVERY vehicle I drive or motor I build- period.

:bigthumb:

This is an interesting read about Motorcraft filters and other brand filters.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ilfilters.html



Motorcraft
Long Lasting FL-1A
This is an interesting filter. Basically, it is a Purolator Pure One filter cartridge in a Purolator Premium Plus case. Don't be fooled by the differently shaped holes cut into the oil inlet. This is the only difference. This is a good filter design and if you want to get a Purolator Pure One filter, get this one instead: it is cheaper.
Like the Purolator Pure One, this filter cartridge features a very large element surface area (400 sqin), but with many pleats (64). This packs the filter together rather tightly and may restrict flow somewhat. I could identify the Pure One element media by a purple dye they use at the seam. It also has the mysterious assembly string wrapped around the outside of the element. Like the Purolators, it features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve. The bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.



Average Retail Price $3
Cartridge Length 4.125 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter 3.250 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter 1.625 inches
Cartridge Pleats 64
Cartridge End Cap Type Stamped-steel, with bypass valve
Anti-Drainback Valve Type Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Bypass Valve Type Spring-loaded steel
Element Type Paper media, stamped metal seam
Element Length 100.0 inches
Element Width 4.000 inches
Element Surface Area 400 square inches
Shell Thickness 0.011 inches
Backplate Thickness 0.120 inches
Gasket Type Nitrile rubber

What filter are you running in the Lightning Randy?