Tire question?
 

I've been trying to figure out if I need a 26" or a 28" tire for 1/8th mile use.

The other question is... Would I be better off going w/ a Drag radial or set up on slicks? DR's I was thinking either a NT-O5R or MT ET-Street. I have no idea what kind of slick to go with.


Also, I was thinking about just getting a 16" wheel to just swap out at the track, I say 16" because you can find them pretty cheap.

I was also throwing around the idea of just DDing a set of radials, but not sure if I wanna do that.

First of all, get a 15" wheel because your selection of racing tires will be greater. They are a dime a dozen, so finding some for a good price shouldn't be an issue.

If you want to run slicks, I recommend a Mickey Thompson ET Drag 28x10.5S, with tubes.

If you want to run radials, at the track only (no street driving), go with the Hoosier 275/60/15.

If you want to run radials and want to drive on the street also, get the Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in the 295/55/15 or the 275/60/15.

All of the tires I just mentioned are 28" tall which is probably about right with 4.30's and a power adder.

Thank you for the help. I know I asked a lot of questions and can't make up my mind on fucking tires. But, you answered them all and I appreciate it. I will probably go with a track only tire and keep my NT-O5's as as my DD tire.


Are their any advantages of a drag radial v.s. all out slick?

The drag radial isn't going to work as well at every track. However, if the drag radial does work, it will be faster. If you want to run a radial at the local tracks, you are going to have to have a good working car and some tuning ability. If you want to just go to the track and have some fun, consistantly, go with a slick.

Sounds like I will be better off with a slick. I have fully stock suspension.

Well in that case, the slick will probably break your shit.

What would it break in the suspension?

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/how...xes/index.html

The Mach1 comes w/ subframe connectors from the factory. When HHP does the install for the rear-end, I am also having them weld the torque boxes and axle tubes.

Brandon broke both of his stock upper control arms.

:hide:

Hopefully they will last a while. I know guys have gone pretty quick on stock suspension. I know it could break on the first pass or the 100th, time will tell. If they did break, would I still be able to drive home, or will it tear some shit up if I tried to do that?

No driving home and it would tear other stuff up as well. You could box the uppers and lowers. That would help. How much power would the car be making?

I am hoping for somewhere around...

But, it could be about...

If you hook up that power could hurt something. Blower car?

i don't kno anymore

I run a 15" rim on my cobra and 27" tires. Wes is right... 15 is the only rim to use if you want any kind of tire selection. I was going to use 16 because of the cobra brakes but after searching it was worth it for me to just grind alittle bit of stuff. I cant really speak on the 27" tire yet as i only ran on them 2x but ive heard its a good size for the sn95 guys to run.

Are you still IRS or did you go SRA? What gears? Stock eaton?

What all did you grind off?

Upper or lower control arms, torque boxes, axles unless you have upgraded, lugs, driveshaft unless you have upgraded, transmission unless you have upgraded, clutch if you are still manual, etc etc.....

Slicks are made to stick. When they stick they will find your weak point or points.

I remember the first time i put slicks on my 04 Cobra. Ripped every pulley off the motor when I launched it. You ever seen that happen?

What would cause that? I switched to slicks and snapped lug studs and could see how rotational parts break but pulleys?

I don't know. I guess going from no load to instantly a ton of load on the motor probably broke one pulley and the rest followed suit then the shit hit the fan. I'm sure the belt when crazy for a minute and the rest is history. If I remember correctly, it appeared that maybe the tensioner broke first.

no marcus broke them!

I ran 4.30's for about 2 weeks and went back to a 3.90. Gained zero with the 30's. And couldn't make it through the 1/4.

i have a set for UPR double adj uppers and the sperical joints for the axle housing that i will sell you

True

DAMN!! I have never seen that, and with any luck I never will...Jesus

P.M. me what ya have?

I ran the stock irs with a brace, but i didnt launch it that hard. I think best 1.8 60ft. Im swapping a built solid in now so i wont worry as much. Ive heard from many cobra/irs guys that slicks are actually safer than drag radials because the sidewall abosorbs the initial hurting better than radials. Also slicks are less likely to wheel hop like most irs cars will do. I still didnt risk it on the irs either way. Only thing to grind if you have a irs is the top of a few bolts( brake line bolt, and a bolt on the side of the irs mount if you run wide tires) and also alittle off the bottom control arm depending what size rims/backspace you run. I ran the stock 3.55s and about 600ish hp and had no problems.

Damn 600HP is pretty stout. I will probably never get close to that. I'm thinking that a 15" wheel/slick is the best bet for me. Anyone have a 15" wheel for sale??? lol..

x2. pos

I'll probably keep the 4.30's, I don't plan on going to a 1/4 track very often. Anyone have an idea of which gear/RPM's I will be going through the traps at??

There is a calculator online somewhere that will give you an idea.

The more I think about it, you would probably be ok with a radial. It handles much better on the track too.

So MT et Streets?

295/55/15 ET Street Radials.

Street Radial, not ET Streets. Thats two different tires. I would run the 275/60/15 or the 295/55/15.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompso...oductId=753925



http://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thompso...oductId=753925

If its going to be absolutely track only, these "work" the best:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hoosier/522/17...oductId=760685

Ive got a set of 275 60 15's mt drag radials you can have for $40, $50 bucks and ill mount them. No cords showing but they are down to the wear bars just so you can give them a shot before buying a new set.

I might be able to do that, but first I gotta find a set of 15's. Would the MT's handle a drive from the house to the track and back. I was thinking about just swapping sets at the house before I go to the track and then put the DD's back on afterwards.