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Voltage Issue: Need opinions.
Back in 2007 I went through a TON of alternators with my car, I just couldn't find a delco that worked right. I finally found a local place who rebuilds starters and alternators and had them rebuild a delco for me.
Fast forward Last week I noticed my car wasnt charging as much as it normally does and it progressively got worse. It finally got to the point to where my voltage needle was dipping into the red on the stock gauge. I had the same place rebuild my alternator and put it back on the car today. I went out in the car tonight and had no isseues until I went to leave SSS... CLICK CLICK CLICK... I originally thought the battery had died. Brandon and I figured that the battery had plenty of juice and the connections were tight so we moved on to the starter after he though he saw an arch. It turns out that I had to jiggle the connections at the starter to get it to crank... it fired right up. Well on the way home I noticed the volts were low again... WTF?!!!? Do you guys think there could be a short in the positive cable that runs from the battery to the alternator/starter and COULD this possible cause an issue with the low voltage if it were truely arching off of something while running? Oh and another thing, I think the alternator might have been fine all along, because when I picked it up the guy said the regulator was bad and the volts shot up to 20 on his bench... I call BS because it sure wasn't doing that in my car... I think they took me for the money... but hell, I have a fresh part now. Thoughts? |
I would do a visual inspection of the positive wire and make sure its not burned or touching anything. Also check all grounds. i have noticed these engines do not like having a faulty ground.
Is your battery relocated or still where Chevy intended it to be? How old id the battery itself? |
come to oreillys. i got u nig. we got 2 gauge and connectors.
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Your alternator may be putting out 13.5 V when measured at the alt. post, but 12.5 at the other end of that wire. If you have multiple loose or poor connections (positive and grounds), the voltage drops can add up. Check and replace or repair the charging wire from the alt., as well as, the main battery wire to the starter; to include all main engine grounds. If you have greater than stock drains on the system from custom stereos, large fans and fuel pumps, you may need to upgrade the size of the charging wire, as the factory uses the smallest wire that will work with the stock power demands. DO NOT USE CHEAP, PARTS STORE, CRIMP CONNECTORS TO REPAIR ANY OF THESE WIRES! Make sure the connectors are good quality and crimped with the proper crimping tools. |
What about pulley sizes? Did you change any of those? Maybe overspinning the alt and burning it up?
Just a thought, i did that once so i thought i would ask. |
The battery is in the stock location and is only a year or two old. I have not done a visual inspection near the starter, but i assume thats where the issue is. The pulley's are bone stock just like they came from gm. I appreciate the help guys, I am going to replace the cables and check all the grounds. I will let you know how it goes.
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ElechTech is right on. Make absolutely sure you use high quality connectors and crimping tool. The crimp itself is theeee most important in making a good solid electrical connection. One crappy connection could cause a major melt down especially if the circuit is carrying a large load.
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matt, LMK if you wanna come by and use my tools and multimeter
think i offered same & some advise on another forum....?? john (guy you borrowed Dennis' trailer from) |
I had the same issue with the 98 S-10 Blazer I sold to Hal JR. After replacing the battery, and altenator. Both always tested good. Well I spoke with an older guy at Advance and he said his starter on his S-10 pick up caused him the same problem. Come to find out, I got under the Blazer and had my son try to start it, and thats where the spark show started. The cables were tight and no breakages. Took it to Advance they put it on the machine and it would throw sparks again. Replaced the starter and no more problems. Now how it draws on the system while not spinning or being engaged I don't know. The starter had a major draw on the electrical system just parked and the key in your hand. So you could be having the same starter symtoms. If you do have to replace the cables they are right use good quality cables, but I soldier all connections, and I don't crimp nothing. Good luck..:bigthumb:
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Thanks guys! It ended up being the positive battery cable. I caught hell trying to find a replacement cable that wasn't a chinese piece of junk. Parks finall found me a standard brand, which took care of all the issues. I also chose to solder over crimping... it's holding up well!
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Most wouldn't take the time or even know how so...good on ya. . |
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i was on a Scion Forum (...long story, kids car...) and guy had a soldering gun for sale, old but almost "NIB" so i bought it. the box was like something from the 50's/60's all cool & well aged. i had to solder something one day, and could not find my other gun, so i got the old gun out, and we got jiggy'wit'it. pretty cool to put an old retired tool back to work. i threw it in the toolbox for future adventures, and tossed the box on a shelf for preservation. |
unrelated???
I think so!!! J/k |
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why are you reading threads a year old :razz: |
I didn't think race cars used alternators
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holy old thread batman
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Edit: Damn I guess I should read the dates on this thing. |
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