[chrisheltra]

Now its time to install the oil pump, follow the factory sequence the torque spec is 89 inch lbs or 10nm. Note: only install the 3 bolts in the picture, the fourth and final bolt goes through the timing chain tensioner later.


Now its time to install the head studs and the head gaskets, our ARP's came with hex heads on them we graciously applied the ARP moly lube and ran them down hand tight. Note the head gaskets, ours were 4 layer Fel-Pro's, Chris thaught it was important enough to take a picture of the side designations on the head gaskets. You can see them below.








Now its time to install the heads. Note: We didn't take a picture of how we set the crank, but in a nutshell (and you will see it later) we positioned the keyway at 12 oclock (pointing toward the top of the motor) this puts the pistons in positions so as not to have any valve to piston contact as you turn the cams later. Remember, be gracious with the ARP moly lube and apply it to both sides of the washers.





Time to torque the heads down. Note: We taped up any hole that we could have dropped something in at this point.

We torqued the heads using the Ford sequence in each step, first we torqued them to 40 ft lbs, then we torqued them to 80 ft lbs and we finished them off with 110 ft lbs. Note: ARP recommends 90 ft lbs with their moly lube. I don't like it, and when I torqued my heads I went to 110 and Chris and I decided to do his the same way.









Now its time to "Time" the engine, I start off by marking the chains (Yes I know, we had new stuff and the links were colored, but if you didn't have that, this is still how you do it) lay the chains out as pictured below, mark the single link and the two top links with the chains laid out evenly.


Disclaimer: This is how I time a 2v, Ford says you need a special tool that rotates the crank to TDC on #1, it locks the crank into position via a dowel for the timing cover. I don't ever intend on buying it, nor do I ever intend on using it to time a 2v. I'll do it my way.

I leave the crank with the keway vertical up (12 o'clock), by leaving it this way I can rotate the cams however I want without the chance of valve to piston contact. With the crank positioned this way, I can do whatever I want without worrying about the cam lobe rolling over acedentaly rollong over and making valve to piston contact.

First I start by marking all the timing marks with a sharpie,for me its easier on the eye's.....








Then I install the center of the top two links over the timing mark on the driver side bank (LH). Then I slowly rotate the cam to line up the single marked link on the center of the crank timing gear using a socket or a chain wrench (socket and breaker bar for aftermarket cams with a bolt, chain wrench for stock cams or cams that have the gears pressed on). Note: When you install the chain, make sure it is below the dowel for the guide on the driver side (LH) and above the dowel for the passenger side (RH)




Repeat the above step for the passenger (RH) side.


Now, verify that you have it timed corectly.








Now install the guides and spring hardware (AKA hand grenades as Chris calls them) we were lucky enough to get a new set of the old (99-00) style adjusters that had pin's in them (we didn't need a special tool to compress the adjusters).

You can see the pins are in the adjusters in the picture (The things with L and R stamped on them) they need to be removed before you bolt on the timing cover.

Follow the Ford torque specs for all of the guides and adjusters.




I think Chris took these to show how the timing cover bolts/studs go on?

Oh don't forget to install the gear for the Crank position sensor, the flat side faces the chain, the raised side faces the cover so that the optical sensor can pick up the teeth.




I think he took this to show how the seal goes? Remember to use some sealant in the 4 locations where the heads meet the block at the seams on the block itself.

We also had pre-installed the front main seal (I know, I know Ford has a special tool, they can keep it too) A dead blow and a piece of 1/4" steel plate tapped it in nicely for mine and the same for his, you must hit it in the center though.....


Follow the Ford torque specs and sequence to tighten the cover.




Install the Dampner, remember to use some sealant on the keyway.




If you remove the engine mounts from the block the way we have, the motor goes in easily with the oil cooler on...............You can put the engine mounts on after you bolt the block to the transmission by lifting it up and sliding them in then dropping the motor down to insert the bolts.


The stock bolts wouldn't fit the holes for the PS resivoir bracket on the JDM Romeo heads, so we had to find some "race" bolts LOL



You can install the rear main seal coverplate, we pre installed the seal using the same method as the timing cover. Follow the factory torque specs and sequence, there is no gasket, you must use high temp RTV sealant.


Bolt up the oil pan (Follow the factory torque specs and sequence), remove it from the engine stand and bolt up the flywheel...



Chris decided to clean and paint those rusty Ford motor mounts, I still can't figure out why Ford didn't have their supplier paint them?

Like a glove.....................