Tire question?

[bababuschka]

I've been trying to figure out if I need a 26" or a 28" tire for 1/8th mile use.

The other question is... Would I be better off going w/ a Drag radial or set up on slicks? DR's I was thinking either a NT-O5R or MT ET-Street. I have no idea what kind of slick to go with.


Also, I was thinking about just getting a 16" wheel to just swap out at the track, I say 16" because you can find them pretty cheap.

I was also throwing around the idea of just DDing a set of radials, but not sure if I wanna do that.

[WWhittle]

First of all, get a 15" wheel because your selection of racing tires will be greater. They are a dime a dozen, so finding some for a good price shouldn't be an issue.

If you want to run slicks, I recommend a Mickey Thompson ET Drag 28x10.5S, with tubes.

If you want to run radials, at the track only (no street driving), go with the Hoosier 275/60/15.

If you want to run radials and want to drive on the street also, get the Mickey Thompson Drag Radials in the 295/55/15 or the 275/60/15.

All of the tires I just mentioned are 28" tall which is probably about right with 4.30's and a power adder.

[bababuschka]

Thank you for the help. I know I asked a lot of questions and can't make up my mind on fucking tires. But, you answered them all and I appreciate it. I will probably go with a track only tire and keep my NT-O5's as as my DD tire.


Are their any advantages of a drag radial v.s. all out slick?

[WWhittle]

Originally Posted by bababuschka

Thank you for the help. I know I asked a lot of questions and can't make up my mind on fucking tires. But, you answered them all and I appreciate it. I will probably go with a track only tire and keep my NT-O5's as as my DD tire.


Are their any advantages of a drag radial v.s. all out slick?

The drag radial isn't going to work as well at every track. However, if the drag radial does work, it will be faster. If you want to run a radial at the local tracks, you are going to have to have a good working car and some tuning ability. If you want to just go to the track and have some fun, consistantly, go with a slick.

[bababuschka]

Sounds like I will be better off with a slick. I have fully stock suspension.

[WWhittle]

Well in that case, the slick will probably break your shit.

[bababuschka]

What would it break in the suspension?

[Mike]

Originally Posted by bababuschka

What would it break in the suspension?

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/how...xes/index.html

[bababuschka]

The Mach1 comes w/ subframe connectors from the factory. When HHP does the install for the rear-end, I am also having them weld the torque boxes and axle tubes.

[1iron]

Originally Posted by bababuschka

The Mach1 comes w/ subframe connectors from the factory. When HHP does the install for the rear-end, I am also having them weld the torque boxes and axle tubes.

Brandon broke both of his stock upper control arms.

[WWhittle]

Originally Posted by bababuschka

What would it break in the suspension?

Upper or lower control arms, torque boxes, axles unless you have upgraded, lugs, driveshaft unless you have upgraded, transmission unless you have upgraded, clutch if you are still manual, etc etc.....

Slicks are made to stick. When they stick they will find your weak point or points.

I remember the first time i put slicks on my 04 Cobra. Ripped every pulley off the motor when I launched it. You ever seen that happen?

[cmd]

Originally Posted by WWhittle

Upper or lower control arms, torque boxes, axles unless you have upgraded, lugs, driveshaft unless you have upgraded, transmission unless you have upgraded, clutch if you are still manual, etc etc.....

Slicks are made to stick. When they stick they will find your weak point or points.

I remember the first time i put slicks on my 04 Cobra. Ripped every pulley off the motor when I launched it. You ever seen that happen?

What would cause that? I switched to slicks and snapped lug studs and could see how rotational parts break but pulleys?

[WWhittle]

Originally Posted by cmd

What would cause that? I switched to slicks and snapped lug studs and could see how rotational parts break but pulleys?

I don't know. I guess going from no load to instantly a ton of load on the motor probably broke one pulley and the rest followed suit then the shit hit the fan. I'm sure the belt when crazy for a minute and the rest is history. If I remember correctly, it appeared that maybe the tensioner broke first.

[bababuschka]

Originally Posted by WWhittle

Upper or lower control arms, torque boxes, axles unless you have upgraded, lugs, driveshaft unless you have upgraded, transmission unless you have upgraded, clutch if you are still manual, etc etc.....

Slicks are made to stick. When they stick they will find your weak point or points.

I remember the first time i put slicks on my 04 Cobra. Ripped every pulley off the motor when I launched it. You ever seen that happen?

DAMN!! I have never seen that, and with any luck I never will...Jesus

[1iron]

If you hook up that power could hurt something. Blower car?

[bababuschka]

i don't kno anymore

[03SVTCOBRA]

I run a 15" rim on my cobra and 27" tires. Wes is right... 15 is the only rim to use if you want any kind of tire selection. I was going to use 16 because of the cobra brakes but after searching it was worth it for me to just grind alittle bit of stuff. I cant really speak on the 27" tire yet as i only ran on them 2x but ive heard its a good size for the sn95 guys to run.

[bababuschka]

Are you still IRS or did you go SRA? What gears? Stock eaton?

[bababuschka]

What all did you grind off?

[03SVTCOBRA]

Originally Posted by bababuschka

Are you still IRS or did you go SRA? What gears? Stock eaton?

I ran the stock irs with a brace, but i didnt launch it that hard. I think best 1.8 60ft. Im swapping a built solid in now so i wont worry as much. Ive heard from many cobra/irs guys that slicks are actually safer than drag radials because the sidewall abosorbs the initial hurting better than radials. Also slicks are less likely to wheel hop like most irs cars will do. I still didnt risk it on the irs either way. Only thing to grind if you have a irs is the top of a few bolts( brake line bolt, and a bolt on the side of the irs mount if you run wide tires) and also alittle off the bottom control arm depending what size rims/backspace you run. I ran the stock 3.55s and about 600ish hp and had no problems.