Started on my truck. - Page 3

wade w · 06-23-2008, 09:32 PM

Yea thats one of them. You dont happen to have the one for the crank to do you.

Mike · 06-23-2008, 09:40 PM

I think that set does go around the crank, it just looks different than the ford tool.

wade w · 06-23-2008, 10:04 PM

OK Mike Thanks.

wade w · 06-26-2008, 07:54 PM

Thanks again Mike. I wont get to use it untill this week end. But I'll get it back to you as soon as Im done with it.

wade w · 07-05-2008, 09:16 PM

Got the heads back on and the cams and chains on and timed At least I think. I tryed to turn the motor over by hand to make sure everthing was OK, but it would not budge. It got dark so I'll look at it tomorow.

wade w · 07-06-2008, 03:58 PM

Went back out this morning. I was trying to turn the motor over last night with the balancer bolt in the end of the crank. Did not want to push it to mutch. Removed the bolt and tryed a crank socket for a small block chevy.
Found it was the same size. Turned the motor over 4 times with the socket.
Did not like how hard it was to turn over. Have any of you had to turn the motor over by hand like that? Did it seem a little stiff? Im going to go ahead and put it together. Unless I hear from somebody that it should be easy to turn over. There was one spark plug in it.

Matts94Z28 · 07-06-2008, 06:04 PM

When I put my rotating assy. together (LT1) it was pretty tough to turn over by hand, and all my stuff is very very light. You do have the plugs remvoed right, if not it might be damn near impossible. I found that a bump starter can be your best friend!

wade w · 07-06-2008, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matts94Z28

When I put my rotating assy. together (LT1) it was pretty tough to turn over by hand, and all my stuff is very very light. You do have the plugs remvoed right, if not it might be damn near impossible. I found that a bump starter can be your best friend!

Yea I did it some more and I think it's OK. I want to do it by hand to make sure nothing was going to hit.

wade w · 07-13-2008, 03:55 PM

Im trying to put the timing cover back on. Id like some pics if anybody has any. I also know there was some stuff bolted to the back of the passanger side head. Dont really remember what all went there.

Didnt really do this right. I just started taking it apart with out keeping up with what went were. Any help would be great. thanks.

Mike · 07-13-2008, 04:12 PM

I might have some more. This picture is without the SC idler bracket.

Click for a bigger pic.

wade w · 07-13-2008, 05:11 PM

Thanks Mike. That will help.

Word to the wise. Do not change windsor heads to romeo heads unless you have a romeo motor to get parts from. Aparently the bolt holes in the front of the heads were the timing cover bolts to the heads are a different size. There in the same place. Just a different size. Witch means the holes in the timing cover are a different size. Yeha.

Mike · 07-13-2008, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wade w

Word to the wise. Do not change windsor heads to romeo heads unless you have a romeo motor to get parts from. Aparently the bolt holes in the front of the heads were the timing cover bolts to the heads are a different size. There in the same place. Just a different size. Witch means the holes in the timing cover are a different size.

Didn't know that.

I thought JDM reused my windsor front cover with my romeo heads.

wade w · 07-13-2008, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

Didn't know that.

I thought JDM reused my windsor front cover with my romeo heads.

The front cover will work. The windsor heads use the bigger bolts. The holes in the windsor cover will be a little bigger that the bolts you will need for the romeo heads. Not sure if Im going to try and use it or not. It will work it just wont be right.

wade w · 07-19-2008, 05:24 PM

I got the timming cover and valve covers on. If anybody has any motor pics I could use them. Mostly the valve cover and the top of the motor areas. Thanks for any help.

clubracergt1 · 07-20-2008, 08:43 AM

Not to say you are wrong, Morey; but I checked Ford's specs. They say 13 lb-ft is the required torque for the spark plugs. Also says that plug gap is .052-.056. (I know that is for a stock combo. Just thought it may help.) I would check the emissions tag under the hood and close the gap a bit; unless, of course, you have upgraded the coils.

slow04 · 07-20-2008, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clubracergt1

Not to say you are wrong, Morey; but I checked Ford's specs. They say 13 lb-ft is the required torque for the spark plugs. Also says that plug gap is .052-.056. (I know that is for a stock combo. Just thought it may help.) I would check the emissions tag under the hood and close the gap a bit; unless, of course, you have upgraded the coils.

That much gap is too much for supercharged applications because of blow-out....mine is about .028, but Wade should stick to .032 with the Eaton blower

05Saleen · 07-20-2008, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clubracergt1

Not to say you are wrong, Morey; but I checked Ford's specs. They say 13 lb-ft is the required torque for the spark plugs. Also says that plug gap is .052-.056. (I know that is for a stock combo. Just thought it may help.) I would check the emissions tag under the hood and close the gap a bit; unless, of course, you have upgraded the coils.

I just got my info off NLOC to help Wade out!
These guy's know more than ME on Gen 2 Lightnings!
Thanks for your tech support, since you are in the FORD business.

wade w · 07-20-2008, 10:59 AM

Thanks eveybody. It was good info Morey. I'll set them at .32 and I got tr6's

Richard Head · 07-20-2008, 06:00 PM

The 4 lb lower should allow you to open them up to .036 and still be ok.
On the 8 thread heads the torqueing(sp) down is not as important, I have not seen anywhere anybody has had any trouble with the 8 thread head spitting the plugs. On ours we put a little lube on the threads and tighten.
Hope you get it running soon.

wade w · 07-20-2008, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Head

The 4 lb lower should allow you to open them up to .036 and still be ok.
On the 8 thread heads the torqueing(sp) down is not as important, I have not seen anywhere anybody has had any trouble with the 8 thread head spitting the plugs. On ours we put a little lube on the threads and tighten.
Hope you get it running soon.

Thanks. If I could get up off my ass. I could get it going in no time, but damn it,s hot.

07-06-2008, 06:04 PM	#7
Matts94Z28 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Summerville Posts: 12,039	When I put my rotating assy. together (LT1) it was pretty tough to turn over by hand, and all my stuff is very very light. You do have the plugs remvoed right, if not it might be damn near impossible. I found that a bump starter can be your best friend! __________________ Charleston Performance Solutions 4560 Rivers Ave. N. Charleston SC 29405 843-225-1142 https://www.facebook.com/CharlestonPerformanceSolutions www.facebook.com/Selepack

07-20-2008, 08:43 AM	#15
clubracergt1 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: The Great, white North (Chicagoland) Posts: 2,483	Not to say you are wrong, Morey; but I checked Ford's specs. They say 13 lb-ft is the required torque for the spark plugs. Also says that plug gap is .052-.056. (I know that is for a stock combo. Just thought it may help.) I would check the emissions tag under the hood and close the gap a bit; unless, of course, you have upgraded the coils. __________________ This space for rent Last edited by clubracergt1; 07-20-2008 at 08:45 AM.

07-20-2008, 06:00 PM	#19
Richard Head Supporting Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 788	The 4 lb lower should allow you to open them up to .036 and still be ok. On the 8 thread heads the torqueing(sp) down is not as important, I have not seen anywhere anybody has had any trouble with the 8 thread head spitting the plugs. On ours we put a little lube on the threads and tighten. Hope you get it running soon. __________________

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06-23-2008, 09:32 PM	#1
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Yea thats one of them. You dont happen to have the one for the crank to do you.

06-23-2008, 09:40 PM	#2
Mike Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 5,481	I think that set does go around the crank, it just looks different than the ford tool.

06-23-2008, 10:04 PM	#3
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	OK Mike Thanks.

06-26-2008, 07:54 PM	#4
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Thanks again Mike. I wont get to use it untill this week end. But I'll get it back to you as soon as Im done with it.

07-05-2008, 09:16 PM	#5
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Got the heads back on and the cams and chains on and timed At least I think. I tryed to turn the motor over by hand to make sure everthing was OK, but it would not budge. It got dark so I'll look at it tomorow.

07-06-2008, 03:58 PM	#6
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Went back out this morning. I was trying to turn the motor over last night with the balancer bolt in the end of the crank. Did not want to push it to mutch. Removed the bolt and tryed a crank socket for a small block chevy. Found it was the same size. Turned the motor over 4 times with the socket. Did not like how hard it was to turn over. Have any of you had to turn the motor over by hand like that? Did it seem a little stiff? Im going to go ahead and put it together. Unless I hear from somebody that it should be easy to turn over. There was one spark plug in it.

07-13-2008, 03:55 PM	#9
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Im trying to put the timing cover back on. Id like some pics if anybody has any. I also know there was some stuff bolted to the back of the passanger side head. Dont really remember what all went there. Didnt really do this right. I just started taking it apart with out keeping up with what went were. Any help would be great. thanks.

07-13-2008, 04:12 PM	#10
Mike Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goose Creek, SC Posts: 5,481	I might have some more. This picture is without the SC idler bracket. Click for a bigger pic.

07-13-2008, 05:11 PM	#11
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Thanks Mike. That will help. Word to the wise. Do not change windsor heads to romeo heads unless you have a romeo motor to get parts from. Aparently the bolt holes in the front of the heads were the timing cover bolts to the heads are a different size. There in the same place. Just a different size. Witch means the holes in the timing cover are a different size. Yeha.

07-19-2008, 05:24 PM	#14
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	I got the timming cover and valve covers on. If anybody has any motor pics I could use them. Mostly the valve cover and the top of the motor areas. Thanks for any help.

07-20-2008, 10:59 AM	#18
wade w Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Savannah GA Posts: 1,725	Thanks eveybody. It was good info Morey. I'll set them at .32 and I got tr6's