Attn. Gerald

ShawnBoyMoody · 08-27-2009, 09:21 PM

Gerald. I've a got a C-4 behind my 306. Been having a problem with it puking fluid and occasionally it will act like I shifted into neutral on the 1-2 shift. It only does this on the bottle. Drives and shifts great on the street. Im foot braking the car. 3500 stall converter. It's supposed to be a "built" tranny.

Any ideas? Thanks, Shawn.

gearmesh, inc. · 08-29-2009, 01:13 AM

Sounds like fluid level may be an issue. I have seen all kinds of causes for a C-4 to puke fluid. Their is not much pan volume in a C-4 to handle a rising fluid level due either to overfilling, too hot of a fluid temp, or aerated fluid. If my memory doesn't fail me, actual fluid level when warm should be at the pan gasket level or just below. When in doubt, source a factory dipstick and tube to be sure of what your fluid level should be.

I have even seen bad valve bodies cause aeration of the fluid, thereby raising fluid level to the point where the rotating assembly can spin through the fluid and aerate the fluid even more. This is a runaway situation. Even a manual valve in the valve body that indexes on a deformed detent roller/spring will let the manual valve sit slightly off from where it is supposed to sit in its bore. Does the detent clicks at the manual lever shaft agree and track with the stops up in your shifter?

It seems like when someone gets a C-4 with a puking problem, it is hell to diagnose. Process of elimination is the only thing that will get you to a solution.

Do you have a deep pan? If so, with a filter extension to get the pickup point as low in the pan as possible? Factory or aftermarket dipstick? You say your problem neutralizing on a 1-2 shift only on the bottle. Could be from fluid aeration or low fluid level letting the filter run dry on a hard launch. Aerated fluid doesn't hold clutches or bands well at all.

Right after you get your puking or neutralizing to happen, stop and check fluid level on the stick. Study it to see if it looks aerated and/or high/low. Find a way to check your fluid temp, too. An infrared point and shoot thermometer on the pan will get you a fairly close reading.

I have even seen extreme solutions for C-4 fluid puking including making a pan baffle to help keep fluid in the pan on hard launches rather than letting it run up the extension housing.

ShawnBoyMoody · 08-30-2009, 12:27 AM

Wow. Bunch of good info there. Thanks for the quick response.

Still running a stock pan. Its got a Hughes locking dipstick on it. Not sure on the detent adjustment. Ive got a brand new trans temp gauge in the car but haven't had time to plumb it in yet. I know the car has been slightly overfilled on the stick but maybe its actually more full than what the stick reads. I will check it out and let you know what I find. Thanks again. Shawn

08-27-2009, 09:21 PM	#1
ShawnBoyMoody Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the lab.... Posts: 8,159	Attn. Gerald Gerald. I've a got a C-4 behind my 306. Been having a problem with it puking fluid and occasionally it will act like I shifted into neutral on the 1-2 shift. It only does this on the bottle. Drives and shifts great on the street. Im foot braking the car. 3500 stall converter. It's supposed to be a "built" tranny. Any ideas? Thanks, Shawn. __________________ The Krusty Koupe "Luck favors the oblivious, and boy am I lucky!"

08-29-2009, 01:13 AM	#2
gearmesh, inc. creepy azz cracka Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Summerville Posts: 1,587	Sounds like fluid level may be an issue. I have seen all kinds of causes for a C-4 to puke fluid. Their is not much pan volume in a C-4 to handle a rising fluid level due either to overfilling, too hot of a fluid temp, or aerated fluid. If my memory doesn't fail me, actual fluid level when warm should be at the pan gasket level or just below. When in doubt, source a factory dipstick and tube to be sure of what your fluid level should be. I have even seen bad valve bodies cause aeration of the fluid, thereby raising fluid level to the point where the rotating assembly can spin through the fluid and aerate the fluid even more. This is a runaway situation. Even a manual valve in the valve body that indexes on a deformed detent roller/spring will let the manual valve sit slightly off from where it is supposed to sit in its bore. Does the detent clicks at the manual lever shaft agree and track with the stops up in your shifter? It seems like when someone gets a C-4 with a puking problem, it is hell to diagnose. Process of elimination is the only thing that will get you to a solution. Do you have a deep pan? If so, with a filter extension to get the pickup point as low in the pan as possible? Factory or aftermarket dipstick? You say your problem neutralizing on a 1-2 shift only on the bottle. Could be from fluid aeration or low fluid level letting the filter run dry on a hard launch. Aerated fluid doesn't hold clutches or bands well at all. Right after you get your puking or neutralizing to happen, stop and check fluid level on the stick. Study it to see if it looks aerated and/or high/low. Find a way to check your fluid temp, too. An infrared point and shoot thermometer on the pan will get you a fairly close reading. I have even seen extreme solutions for C-4 fluid puking including making a pan baffle to help keep fluid in the pan on hard launches rather than letting it run up the extension housing. Last edited by gearmesh, inc.; 08-29-2009 at 01:19 AM.

08-30-2009, 12:27 AM	#3
ShawnBoyMoody Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the lab.... Posts: 8,159	Wow. Bunch of good info there. Thanks for the quick response. Still running a stock pan. Its got a Hughes locking dipstick on it. Not sure on the detent adjustment. Ive got a brand new trans temp gauge in the car but haven't had time to plumb it in yet. I know the car has been slightly overfilled on the stick but maybe its actually more full than what the stick reads. I will check it out and let you know what I find. Thanks again. Shawn __________________ The Krusty Koupe "Luck favors the oblivious, and boy am I lucky!"